By CHRISTINA COOKE
Fodor’s guide to Portland, Oregon
View on Fodor’s site here.
The line that forms outside this Southern cooking restaurant at brunch and dinner is as epic as the food itself. But think of the wait that precedes the meal—which you can spice up with cocktails from the bar—as a chance to ramp up your appetite and fully anticipate the experience to come. A large, packed dining room with canned pickles and peppers along the walls, this Portland hot spot does justice to the Southern cooking tradition. Try the fried chicken plate—two moist pieces of meat in crisp and peppery buttermilk batter, accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes and collard greens cooked in bacon fat—or the Screen Door plate with your choice of four sides (we like the the mac and cheese, creamy grits, and most any of the salads on the rotating seasonal menu).